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Entries in Warmachine (7)


Making the Las Vegas Open 2017 Cephalyx Finals table.

Each year I try to make a finals table for the Las Vegas Open Warmachine events I run. This year I went for a Cephalyx underground bio factory.

First up is the general layout that will be laser cut out. The smaller red square are etch patterns that will be getting drudge bio pods on them.

Here are some of the side board panels along with some misc parts.

And all the parts laid out to be laser cut.

While things are getting cut I am working on the other terrain bits that will accompany the table. First up is the Cephalyx colossal along with its' bio chamber.

I am making the colossal by kit bashing a Skaven monstrosity with some Cephalyx monstrosity bits.

Here it is all together with sculpting the even out the muscles and cover the skaven runes and such.

Now up is his bio tank.

1. Cutting plexi panels and gluing them together to form the walls of this bio chamber.

2. Walls glued together

3. The base of the chamber. Made of foam core with diamond plate plasticard glued on top.

4. Adding some pipes and vents to bottom of the bio chamber.

5. The bottom surround of the bio chamber assembled. 

6. The top lid of the bio chamber assembled. I plan on having lights in the bottom and top of the chamber, but those will not go in till it is pretty much finished.

7. Painting the board I want to go for a rusty dark metal look. To achieve that I am priming everything a rust red.


8. After that was dry I spray painted it a dark bronze color and then hit it in spots with an aluminum color spray. Once the table is mostly complete I am going to go back and add control panel glows, oil and blood stains.

9. I am going to seal the gap between the plexi panels and the base with thick craft glue. It is quite a bit easier to deal with than caulking for this application.

10. And with the exterior rim glued to it.

While this is drying it is time to paint the colossal! This is going to be a somewhat quick paint job as he is going to be in a somewhat clouded tank and does not need to be super fancy. 

1. Primed and ready to start painting.

2. Base coat of dark flesh airbrushed on, then a top highlight coat with the airbrush of a medium flesh.

3. Mixing in some bone white another airbrush highlight layer is applied.

4. After that I went back with the dark flesh and shaded the cracks/under areas. Then taking the bone white I put some hard highlights on it. This will help it "pop" in the bio tank.

5. Using a a clear red color, airbrush all the stitching to make it look a little inflamed and anywhere else I wanted it a little red. Adding in a little purple in spots would look good too, though I did not do that.

6. Fast forwarding a bit all the metal and wood is painted. The metal was painted silver, then heavily washed with GW nulin oil, then flesh wash. That is a pretty easy way to add some shading and weathering without spending a lot of time. Use a blow dryer to help keep the washes from pooling.

While things are drying with the colossal bio chamber I started working on the individual drudge bio pods. 

1. Making the master parts for the drudge bio pod bases and tops.

2. Using silicon rubber mold material I make a master mold so I can make a bunch of bio chambers.

3. I am going to need a bunch more drudges, so making a mold of a few too with an umbilical cord. 

4. Painting up some more drudges for the bio pods along with Cyphon

5. Test fitting a drudge in one of the pod chambers.

6. I air brushed some color to look like gunk build up in the bio tube, then glued it onto the base for the bio pod chamber

Here is one of the drudges that will be going into the bio pods.

To run the wires up to the top of the bio chamber I have hollow plastic tube. 

I painted then cut the tubing. Then fit it to the camber and figure out where to make the channel for the wire.

LED hot glued into the bottom of the bio pod. I have solid red LEDs and candle flicker LEDs to use on the pods/table.

The top of the bio pod with the LED glued in and wire through the post.

Testing out the LED with the mini inside.

I am using some old clear resin I have for the Bio pods. It is supposed to be clear, but it is a little old.....
It will be perfect for dirty bio pods, and if it does not dry all the way it does not matter as it will be all contained and no one will be touching it.

This stuff you can not degas and when you mix it get super bubbly. But they will mostly come out by the time it sets up.

And testing turning on the light.

Once the resin is all set up (the next day), it is time glue on the top.
I just used white glue to attach it. It should be strong enough and it is easy to work with vs super glue for this.

And lit up. IRL you can see the drudge in there much better. The camera has a hard time taking a picture of it. You can see the resin cleared up quite a bit too.

And a video of what the flicker LED looks like.


The pile of tubes for the rest of the bio pods

Working on the rest of the Bio pods I have where I need to drill my holes and cut channels. 

Working on the LEDs on the larger colossal bio tank.
This is the lid. I am cutting into the foam core lid to embed the LEDs. The wire will run inside of tubes inside the tank to get to the bottom.

Covered with putty.

Then I taped off the LEDs and painted the underside.

Cutting the bottom of the bio tank to make room for the wires.

LEDs glued in along with the posts for the wires from the lid.

Added a little smudging to the walls with the airbrush.

Colossal glued in.

I added just a little bid of "clear" resin to start. This way if there are any small holes they will get plugged before I will it up more. As it was starting to cure and get thick I dribbled some over the mini to there will be drips and runnels of water running down it.

I have been getting parts cut this week, and today I was able to get some time working on the table itself.
First are pics of stuff I was working on during the week.

Making all the bio tanks I cut up a long piece of tube.

All the tubes shaded some with an airbrush. This will make them look a little older and grimier. 

One of the drudges glued in and his back cable attached to him. The tooth pick is to help hold the cables as the glue dries. 

Big batch of that old resin mixed up to put into the large bio chamber and some of the bio pods.

Resin poured into the larger bio chamber. Most of all those bubbles will settle out of the resin by the times it cures. Though there is going to be a problem.....

But before that here is a sneak peak at Cyphon. He is going to be suspended up above the side board overseeing operations. The colors are a quite washed out. Reds, bright light and my phone don't mix too well.

This pictures is a little better.

Now back to the non-perfection that is the bio chamber. The first casting ended up tilted a little as the surface I had it on was not level....
You can also see how the resin pulled in at the corner.
I also poured some partially cured resin over the gargantuan. This added a nice sheen to him and some drips so he looks like he is splashing around in his tank some. 

So trying to fix it I added some more resin to level it out. But this resin (which was a different type) cured differently and pulled away from the plastic. So it looks like crap.

To make the waves I am using Woodland Scenics Water effects. It is a thick gel that you can sculpt into waves and shapes. It is the same stuff I used on my Guild Ball fishermen bases. 
I squeezed a bunch in there planning on spreading it around.

Using a sculpting tool I pushed it around into something that will look like waves when it drys. It will take a few days for the water effects to dry.

Now back to the board itself. 

Here is some of the parts as they are getting laser cut.

And some of the pile o parts that are left over. I should be able to find something to do with these either with this project or another in the future.

Back at home with the parts starting to lay everything out finally!

Some more of the cut table parts.

Some of the side board vertical parts.

Here is what the basics of the main play surface will look like. Everything when done will be flat and smooth for easy play. All the terrain will be movable.

Under this 1/8" thick top layer I will have a 1/4" mdf layer. This will stiffen it up quite a bit and help keep it from flexing as people lean on it when playing. 

With the table laid out I drew the areas I need to cut out onto the 1/4" mdf. You would actually see any of this sub mdf, so it can be a little more messily cut.

Everything cut out and the plasma panel set in to check the fit.

Now to glue it all together!

Using wood glue I attached the top laser cut panels to the 1/4" mdf sub layer.

One of the "hills" for the table. Having flat terrain at least for hills makes for much cleaner play on these fancy finals tables.

Here are some of the other parts going together for the table.

Movable walls for the table too.

For the side board I am going to have floating orbs with Cephalyx runes on them. I think these will be super cool all lit up red with runes, light and smoke around them.

And Starting to repaint them. Bonus, since they are magnetic I can just stick it to a nail and spray paint it.

Sunday morning back outside working on the table. 
Now that the table top is glued together it is time to build the box around it. 

This picture is of the box under the lower side board. Typically I make a 4x4 center table, then two removable side boards. This way everything fits in the back of the truck and the flat center tables can be stacked and the side boards can be stacked on their sides. If space was not such and issue, or I had a large space to store them making them as one piece would be easier. 

The interior of the table will have stand-off supports to help support the table top as people lean on it. 

Here the stand-offs are located and measured. I will need to drill holes in the top and the bottom to secure them. The table top will be removable just in case something needs to be fixed as some point.

Stand offs glued and screwed to the bottom of the table. 

Table tops mounted on the boxes.

This is the large center inset for the plasma panel.

Starting to lay out the larger side board.

Each one of these squares will have a bio pod in it with the larger bio chamber in the middle.

At this point I need more MDF so will have to wait to get some the next day.

Putting the top on the large bio chamber. I am just using thick craft glue. It bonds pretty well, especially on something that will not be knocked around a bunch. Super glue would cloud the plastic and epoxy is just a mess to work with in this application.

With it on it is not perfectly level. But it is good enough for the glue to hold.

Using some painted plexi card strip I am covering up the gap and adding a little extra strength to holding on the top.

Here are some of the more than 20 smaller bio pods the table will have on it.

Showing what the top looks like of the bio pod and where the top wire comes down through.

So I had some older polyester resin I wanted to use up on this project. Fortunately I tested it just one bio chamber. Lets just say the plastic did not like it at all....

That is the plastic itself actually cracking. Not due to heat or anything. Just some kind of chemical incompatibility between the two.

Definitely not going to use any more of this. Might still use the pod on the table. It could be a broken one or something.

For my next test I am using some smooth-on crystal clear two part resin. Hopefully this will work. I mixed too much though, and not wanting to waste any I filled three more bio pods.

Here is a picture of the rest of the Bio pods filled with clear resin.

Wiring up the two LEDs of each pod to each other after I put the tops on all of them.

So after years of drought here it finally started raining. But of coarse the three weeks right before LVO it has been raining a ton. My garage is only a single wide and there is not a ton of room inside to have tools out for working on the table. So fun times...

This is going to be the larger side board where most of the bio pods and the large bio chamber are going.

This is the first vertical face of the side board.

Testing the overlap using the smaller side board for how the larger side board will overlap the main table slightly.

Attaching the vertical face to the larger side board.

Clamping it all down to give it some time to dry.

On the smaller side board there are some larger vents. I am not running smoke to them, but they will have some flickering light under them. These boxes are to help make the light a little more visible and hide the rest of the inside of the small side board. There will be some smaller bio pods over here too that will be light.

This is the side board top plate upside down.

2nd step of the larger side board being attached.

The side board has doorways on each level. I built a little box for each that will attach to the back that will make it look like a hallway. They each have a light in them too.

It is dark and cold outside (at least for California, my god it is under 50 degrees) so time to move into the garage and work on the piping for the smoke machine.

Starting the layout the piping in the main board. This will pipe the smoke to cups that are under the 4 center vents on the table.

Here are the cups. I am using pvc pipe end caps for these.

The cups installed into the innards of the table.

Smoke from smoke machines comes out pretty hot. Thusly it will tend to rise. So to help the smoke "cling" to the table I am going to have a small insulated lunch box filled with dry ice that the smoke will run through first.
The lunch box and smoke machine will be living inside the larger side board.

Now to test out the smoke machine! I don't have any dry ice right now so I just have the smoke machine pushed up against the pipe for the main table. I am quite excited (at least for me, I had a little smile) to get this point as I had an idea in my head of what this would look like, but had no idea if it would actually work.

It looks to work quite well!

Once I cool the smoke down some it should stay lower to the table.
That is it for tonight. More pictures to come tomorrow night.

Now that I know the smoke is not a lost cause I painted the in the interior grey. It could have been black, but I had a can of grey laying around that could be used up.

Once the grey was dry I took the bronze rattle can spray paint and sprayed it around a little bit to break up the plain grey of the interior. You wont be able to see much of the interior, but it would hurt.

These are the back interior supports of the second level of the larger side board. The thinner mdf needs some kind of backing or support to keep it from sagging.

I used some clamps to help align the edge of the top 2nd level with the face below while the glue dried. 

Now it is time to do the piping in the larger side board. I flipped it upside down so I would not have to hold anything. This cups are attached to the underside of the vents on the second tier of the side board.

The assembly that attaches to the vertical vents on the side board. These will have lights in them eventually. I ran out of LED's and probably won't be able to get any before I have to leave for LVO.

All the vents piped up.

And the set up with the smoke machine and the cooler that will have the dry ice. All this will be enclosed inside the side board. 

And in case I don't want to use the cooler I can hook the smoke machine right up to the piping. Though the pipes do get kinda hot from the smoke.

The smoke comes out much slower now with all the extra piping added. I might try to add an inline fan at some point to help move the smoke along. But that will have to wait till after the Con.

Now back to working on the front of the side board. I build a backer that will be offset back from the vertical girders. The "U" shaped plastic parts are going to have magnetic floating balls that I pictured before in them.

The center circle in the above picture is going to have a lit recessed Cephalyx symbol in it. Also, the whole area between the vertical girders and the back panel will and piping and such too.

I was getting late so that is about as much as I got done on the table outside.

Back inside I worked on finishing wiring up my bio pods and chamber.

Here is the mess of wire coming out of the bottom the the large bio chamber.

Now cleaning up a bit so I can feed them into the board. I used hot melt to glue the wires in the channels on the bottom of the chamber.

And with lights on!

Here is hopefully a little better picture of the monstrosity. maybe in the future I will get some of the monstrosity heavies and put them in some bio chambers too.

I also painted the floating magnetic orbs. They have runes on them spelling something out... 

Test fitting the center Cephalyx logo on the side board. The logo is a metallic red color.

I am adding some piping behind the paneling of the side board. I would like to add more, but I don't really have the time right now for it. But at least it is something to add some interest.

With the girder panels in.

First coat of antique bronze spray paint.

Same thing on the main table. 

And a lighter coat of aluminum color spray paint.

Putting in the girder panels 

Here is Cyphon overseeing his bio factory. He is magnetized so he can be safe during transport. I am going to add some smaller tubes to the back of him that meld a little better into the larger tubing.

Here you can see the tubing coming up to him. I have an extra LED that I think I might add inside of Cyphon so he will glow too. I need to get a bunch more LEDs to outfit the rest of the table, but that will have to wait till after LVO.

The top put on the side board and weighted down while the glue dries.

Using strip LED lighting I am going to make the inside of the main table glow. The lighting unit can make it any color, flash and pulse. Just like the CoC table. Though it will probably just stay on red. If I am using just the main table and no side board I can always make it blue so it will match the blue of the plasma panel.

Here is the LED control unit with the IR remote receiver. 

With the play surface on and the vents glowing.

The Plasma panel inserted!

And here is a quick video of what the plasma panel and lights look like.

I am moving along on the table. I have to have it finished up by Monday! Here are two quick teaser pics. I don't have too much more I need to do. I have the terrain and smaller detailing to do then it should be all done.

I have to open up the hole a little for the plasma panel. 

Table is all finished up! I am packed up and headed to LVO in the morning for a few days of vacation before the con starts. 
I will finish up the tutorial part of this once I get back. But for now here are some finished pictures of it with the smoke and lights.

Working on some terrain for the table. These are going to be pools of processed liquid, blood and guts, or maybe food. Depends on what you want it to be....

I started off with painting the inside of the pool a mottled red. This will add some depth and texture to the pool once the resin is in. I tinted the clear resin with some red tamaya clear paint. The pouring liquid I have a support of fishing line.

Clear resin poured in and curing.

Resin set up and ready for some sculpting gel.

Using acrylic sculpting gel I made the pouring liquid, along with waves in the water.

And the acrylic gel on the other can.

Once it dried I painted over with some of the clear Tamaya red paint. IRL the pouring water is semi transparent.

I re-painted a chess clock to match the board too. I tried to make bloody finger prints on the clock paddles, but they just turned into smudges.

And the objectives and flags for the table.

Here are some pictures of it all together. The pictures are a little grainy because of the lower light in the garage and using a camera phone. Once I get back from LVO I am going to add a few more lights as I ran out, do some re-wiring and then take some better pictures.

With the smoke running.

The pipes on the round bases on the rectangles represent "forests".

Some pictures of the table being played on at LVO. There are more pictures of LVO at

Hope you guys enjoyed all the pictures!


Making snow and icicles for miniatures

Looking around at the different tutorials out there for snow I was not able to find one that gave me the volumetric look I wanted, staying nice and white all while being super tough for models that will be on the table top to be played with.

After some experimentation this is what I came up with. It is not the best looking snow effect out there, but as they get more powdery/fluffy they seam to break down easier. 

Making icicles always looked so involved too. So here is a pretty simple way to make them in a few steps.

Materials you will need: (Pictures after list)

1. Baking soda (from your local market baking section)
2. Woodland scenics water effects
3. Vallejo Water Texture
4. Woodland Scenics Snow
5. Acrlic Matte Varnish (airbrushable)
6. Clear fishing line. I used 30lb test. 
7. Airbrush 

First up is how to make Icicles. This is pretty easy.

Take some fishing line and cut a small piece off. Have a little pool of gel super glue off to the sise, I pinched the fishing line between some twezers and dip one end into it and then attach it to the model.

Once that has dried, grab the bottle of water effects. This has a squeeze bottle which i just took off to open the bottle and scooped some of the paste out. Using a toothpick spread the water effects out on the finish line to make icicle looking shapes.

Usually let it sit overnight to dry all the way. If needed build up some more paste to make them more icicle like or to add more volume to them. Once all that is dried use a little bit of thinned white paint to cloud them up a little. Normally icicles are a little clouded, and this will also help them be more visible on your model. A perfectly clear icicle will be hard to see on a model from any distance away. 

Now on to the snow.

There are a few steps here. There is no super easy method for making snow that look chunky, fluffy and some what smooth. 

Here are some of the other examples that I have tried.

Here with using wall spackle plaster and glue as a liquid. It makes a nice smooth white mass of "snow" that is rock hard. 

This one is just using Woodland Scenics snow with a little bit of white dry brush after. It looks ok, but it has a little too much of a rough texture for snow. I am probably going to cover it up with the way I did it on my fire eaters. 

Now the steps for creating somewhat realistic tough snow for table top minis.

Grab some foil (or something to mix on), toothpicks (or anything to mix and apply with), Vallejo Water Texture, Woodland scenics snow and baking soda.

I mixed about 50/50 baking soda and woodland scenics snow together into a small container. Then take a scoop of water texture and place it onto your mixing surface. Now pour your dry snow mixture onto it and start mixing it until you get a thick wet slurry consistency.

Then using a toothpick or small spatula spread it around the base and the model where you want it. Once that is done take just straight Baking soda and cover the areas of snow on the mini. This will help smooth out the snow heaps and add some of that natural powdery look of snow. This will look like they have been through a snow storm and have this cool looking snow on them. But it will not stay at all for a mini that will be played with. So we are going to have to get rid of some of it and seal in the rest.

I let it sit overnight for the mixture to dry all the way. Using a large'ish brush (I use a large watercolor brush), brush off some of the excess baking soda. What you are looking for it to get rid of the baking soda the base edge and the mini where you don't want the dusting of powder. 
Now there should still be a decent amount ow powdery baking soda on the snow. You want to start the sealing process for it now.

Take the Acrylic Matte Varnish and load up your airbrush. Turn the PSI down to 5 or less. You want just the minimum amount of air pressure to sputter out some of the varnish onto the snow. Anything more will start blowing away the baking soda "snow".

I sprayed it on pretty heavy and you can see it pooling on the mini in place. Just take an older paint brush and wick out the extra varnish out of the cracks. Your mini will end up a little shiny, but that is nothing a little dull coat won't fix later. Let the varnish dry mostly before the next steps. The baking soda will still be loose, but this will help it stay put for the next step.

Now take the varnish and pour some out into our egg pallet. Take an old brush and start dabbing varnish onto the piles of snow. You will want to get is nice and saturated with varnish.


 Set it aside to let it dry. Once it id done drying you can clear coat the mini as normal to get rid of the shine.

And once they are clear coated with a matt varnish then a dull coat.

Good luck! And if you have any questions please let me know.


Lighted Warmachine Major Prime Victoria Haley (Haley 3)

Following is a quick tutorial on how I lit future and past Haley for the Haley 3 unit. I thought since they are supposed to be ghostly shadows having made out of clear and fading in with painted color, along with being lit would be very cool!


First I started by partially assembling Haley Future and past. For doing a one off casting having them partially assembled will make them a little easier to work with and stronger since they will be less pieces. 

I pressure cast them to make sure I got all the details. Here is a quick tutorial on basic presure casting. 

I used Smooth-On Crystal clear for the casting material.  

I let them sit in there for 24 hours to make sure they were cured.  Once I pulled them out I still had to let them site for a few days to let the clear resin finish curing. When making smaller batches of resin like this it is hard to get it exactly to ratio, so it tends to take longer to cure all the way. 

Next up is making the bases to hold the battery mount, switch and lights. I started off sanding down some resin bases so I just was left with the terrained top.

(picture before sanding)

To hold the battery mount and other stuff I need a hollow base. I cut the top out of a regular PP base and added a plexicard ring at the bottom to make it a little deeper. The standard base is too shallow for all the stuff needed in it.

The battery mount with switch is too large to fit in a 30mm base. So I took it to the belt sander to make it fit. I also added a little plasticard "ramp" in front of the switch to help get the battery out.

The LEDs I used are 3v blue flicker mini LEDs. Here you can see the inside of the base with the holes for the LEDs.

Next the LEDs are soldered to the board, battery inserted and the package slid up into the base to test out!

Here is a video of what it looks like with the flicker lights.


Net up Granny Haley gets her lights.

Here they are all painted. To "Prime" the clear models I used Testors Dull coat. It takes paint pretty well and will cloud the clear models a little to help with light dispersion. I just painted half of the ghostly models to help make the look like they were phasing in. 

And a bonus of an objective I made at the same time to go with them. I filled the top part of the mold with clear resin that I tinted, then once it had cured some filled the rest of it with opaque resin.

Hope you found this informative and helpful!


Making an Convergence themed finals table for Las Vegas Open

I am working on the finals table for this years Las Vegas Open.
With the help of Archi of with the laser cutting I thought I could make a cool Convergence themed board. And I just have just a few weeks to get it all done!
I took inspiration from the great table Kris Johnson at Mechanica studios made for WMW.

Shameless plug for LVO too.

So to start things off I laid everything out in the computer for the laser cutting.

Once it was all laid out I broke out all the parts for Archi to cut up. And Archi made the gears even cooler too.

A short time later a great pile of parts showed up. This is just part of it I opened up. 

Some of the gears painted up.

Some of the parts stacked up and glued for the side board. I used wood glue to assemble everything so it would be nice and strong. 

The play surface is going to be made up of a few layers of mdf wood. This will make it nice and strong as there is no way to keep people from leaning on it. 
I laid the intermediate layer on the bottom layer so I could trace the openings out. The bottom layer is 1/4" mdf and one piece so it will be nice and strong. The next two top layers are 1/4" laser cut mdf.

After the holes were traced out I added a 1/4"ish offset so you won't see the thicker under layer.

Drilled holes in the corners to help jig saw cut the parts out.

Pic with the openings cut out. 

And the middle layer laid on top.

Here is one of the side boards. 
The layers are glued together and then test assembled with the verticals.

The verticals are going to have a piece of plexi between them so it will light up with the table. 

And some of the industrial terrain that will be on the table too. 
The center will be a big glowing eyeball thing.

Time to build the boxes that the table and side boards will sit on. 
The bottom is 1/2" plywood so it will be nice and strong. The rest of it is 1/4" MDF. This way it is still pretty strong and I won't have to sand everything to make it nice to smooth.
I ripped down the edge pieces on the table saw to 5". All the parts get put together with wood glue and then pin nailed with a finish nail gun. 

Once that dried a little bit I flipped it over and glued a 3" strip of mdf inside. This is going to be the lip the finished table surface will rest on. 

And the 2nd set of 3" support strips. 

Box for the larger side board. 

This is about as far as I can take the side board box until I get the facing finished and the lights set up.

Here is the table with box and play surface set on it. It is pretty stiff since there are three layers of MDF glued together, but I will be adding support posts underneath as they is no way I can keep people from leaning on it. 

Now to lay out the gears. I printed the the gear locations from my original concept design with some dimensions on them so I can locate them on the table. 

And with the gears on the board. I then put to top back on to make sure everything lined up correctly and fixed any locations that needed it. 

Each gear is going to get a motor. I got some 6v 20rpm motors off ebay. I made wood mounting blocks for them. This also gets the gears off the bottom of the table to make room for the other do-dads that are going to go in there. 

To power this thing I am going to put a power strip in it so I can plug in the transformers. The transformers will give me 12v power for the LED's and 6v power for the motors. I also sketched out the squares where the motors will mount to. 

Motos mounted with little L-brackets. Got shallow screws so they did not go through the bottom of the table. 

Soldering up the connections. I am wiring them up so if one shorts or I have to remove it the rest will still work.

All finished wiring for the motors. (I later ended up adding a switch for the motors so I could stop them without having to unplug the whole thing.

With the gears mounted. 

And with the motors on. 

Once I made sure everything was working I dry fit the top to see what it was going to look like. 

Now I get to start adding some lights. I hoped that the edge lighting would be enough to light up the entire board without shining in peoples faces. This is where I get to find out.

I used some painters tape to tack on the light strips. I will need to removed them and paint the inside first before they go on permanently. 
You can also see the stand-offs I added to help keep the table from collapsing when people lean on it. 

And with the lights turned on! I ended up adding a second row of LED strip so it would be a little bit brighter in well lit rooms.

The LED strips controller has a bunch of different options for colors and light pasterns. While playing I would expect to keep it a solid color. Though it does have an IR remote so maybe in the middle of a casual game I can F with them a little...

Time to paint the inside of the table. I removed the power strip and taped off the tops of the motors. Everything else is going to get spray painted black.

And after a few coats of black spray paint.

Patching up the joints and nail holes to sand them smooth. Also assembling the smaller side board. The side boards are separate for for easy of transportation and also so I can just take to main board out to play with if I want to. Carting around a 4'x4" table is not too bad. But a 6'x4' table that weighs 100 lbs would be a little much. 

Here you can see the transformers and the controller for the LED strips. The LED strips have adhesive backing which makes them nice and easy to install. 

I installed two rows of LED strip. Fortunately they are still high enough that they don't shine in players eyes. 

And with the lights on. They come with an IR controller so it is super easy to turn them on/off and change the colors.

And here are the strip LED lighting I used.

First coat of paint on the table. I used a spray paint for this. Mostly so it would be nice and smooth and I would not have to worry about flooding the details on the board. I used a warm gray color called Granite. 
It took a few coats a paint to get a nice solid coat of paint. I also did the side boards at the same time.

Once that had dried I set it on the table and started lining up the pipes I will add to the interior to make it a little more interesting. I used 1/2" PVC pipe for it.

Once I had them cut I spray painted them silver. Then tapped some holes and screwed the to the bottom of the table. I also added some other grating and do-dads I had laying around. 

And with the lights on.

Next up now that all the spray paint base color is all dry I started adding a hex patter to everything. I did it so it was fading in and out so the table would not be too busy, but still have some "texture" to it. Just a plain grey table would be kinda boring. 

Next up is adding some painted glow effects to the tables to help break up all the grey. I had to do a bunch of taping off to keep the paint where I wanted it.

For the glows I used P3 arcane blue and then some light blue grey. 

And all finished up. Once this was nice I dry I clear coated everything so it will be some what scratch resistant. 

 The other part of the side larger side board. 

On the larger side board pictured above there is going to be a blue plexi eye/aperture that will light up. I am going to build a box that I can line with LEDs to make it glow. I used some foam core as it is nice and think and light.

Glued on and painted the inside rim black.

Before I can put the lights in the "eye" I need to do the lights in the base of the side board. The side board buttresses will have a layer of Plexi sandwiched between the outer layer so they will glow. Originally I was just going to have some LED's shining up it. But I wanted them to match the board as it can change colors. So now I am going to run the LED strip to it.

I built some backing mounts for the LED strips. I could have just taped them in with some Duct tape, but I was worried that if it ever came unstuck getting in there would be a SUPER pain in the butt to fix it. 

And testing before everything was dry to make sure I did not pinch the strip. If anything was messed up fixing it later would be difficult. 

I have a hole in the side of the main board so I can connect the side board strip to the power supply. 

After the glue set up I flipped it over and set it in for a test fit. 

Once I made sure it still fit ok, I added some blocking and painted the edges of the side board.

I want to be able to take apart the side board just in case something happens with the lights, or if I want to change the way the lights are set up. So instead of gluing the finished faces on I am going to screw them into the blocking. 

And the blocking and counter sink holes for the vertical face. 

Doing up the LED strip inside the vertical panel. It will get another foam core backing panel that I will leave white to help with reflecting the light.

Now that the faces are attached for the side board I glued on the top. Just to the three side though so I can still take the facing off if needed. 

Once that was all dry I painted the outside of everything a dark grey. I did not want black because of the jarring contrast between it and the finished table. 

And with some of the terrain on it. 

Next up I wanted to have a clock for the table that matched. After going through all this and having to put a bright red/green clock on the board made me cringe inside. I took one of my DGI clocks apart and painted it up.
It came apart pretty easy with just some screws. Some of the parts were plastic "welded" inside so they got taped off and the rest of the guts (that were still attached ) got set to the side and covered with some paper.

Primed and then sprayed with the same base color as the board. 

Hex pattern applied. Because, why not? and then glow effects added to the panel openings. 

Once it stops raining I can get it clear coated and re-assembled.

Oh, and sorry for the crappy video.

I still have stuff to do on the table too.
-Get the plexi installed
-Get the central side board solar system thing finished. Though I am maybe thinking of getting one of those floating globes to repaint and put there. I will see if I can find a cheap one. Unless someone has one around they don't want any more...
-Make some flags and objectives for the table.
-Paint up the optifex workers and drones to decorate the table with.
-Finish up the hills, smoke forests, trenches, etc.

I could just imagine what large casino dice or any other heavy dice would do to this table, so I made some dice trays that match the table. And woe to anyone that does not use them.....

I cut strips down on the table saw and clamped them with some glue to an 8"x8" square piece of MDF.

I made three of them so I would have an extra for myself. 
I sanded down the joints so everything was mostly smooth.


With the grey base paint that the table got and then the hex pattern. Once everything was nice and dry they got a few coats of spray clear coat.

Adding felt to the bottom to help keep it from scratching the table. And felt to the inside to dampen the dice some.

Last batch of parts showed up!

This is kind of what the center piece on the large side board is going to look like. Probably going to add some painted ping-pong ball planets to it too.

Plexi panels test fit onto the table. I had to sand some of them down to fit. This was more because the wood parts of the table were put together jig-saw like, so the openings for the plexi panels did not match the CAD designs perfectly anymore. Next time I do something like this I am going to try and have the clear panels when I start assembling the table to make sure everything fits.

More test fitting. You can see some of the areas that done quite fit down into the table.

The surrounding plexi parts for the CoC logo face.

Some of the walls for the table. I made some cool resin ones, but I ran out of mold material for them. So these will have to do for now.

Last of the parts painted up.

I did not want to go with really tall hills for this table. I figured most models will not have a problem straddling one layer of 1/8" mdf. So I built up 2 staggered layers to be "hills" for the table. I also have a themed trench that I don't have a picture of yet here.

The Convergence logo with in the center'ish of the table.

And the table with the Plexi panels installed and glued. I used a clear no-toxic glue to adhere the panels the the board. If I press hard enough from the bottom they should pop off if I need to work with them later. But this should be strong enough to keep them in place for now. I weighted them down to give the glue a chance to dry. Before they were placed in I put on some gloved (no fingerprints!) and cleaned all the parts will with plexiglass cleaner. I would hate to get everything installed only to find finer prints and streaks on the back side of the plexi.

Now that I have the plexi parts I can get the up rights glued together. The glue I used for this, while nice for other application, it messed up the paint.....
I the future I will use a more gentile clear adhesive.

Uprights glued and clamped to dry. The paper towels were there to protect the paint from the clamps. The rubber on the clamps tends to stick to the paint once they have been there for a little bit. 

The next day I took the clamps off and there were problems....

The glue had softened the paint (through the mdf) and the paper towels stuck to the paint, I was not happy.
I peeled the paper towel bits off and then sanded down all the blemishes and texture the paper towels left.

I taped off the plexi and edges so they could get repainted. Some of the areas were still ok so I left them alone. 

Next I re-did the hex pattern and the glowing parts.

Peeling off the tape and everything looks mostly ok. There are a few dimples and marks that you can't really see. But I really don't want to re-cut, glue and paint the uprights again.

And installed. 

I painted up a bunch of optifex and servitors to decorated the table with and make objectives. 

And the objectives and servitors. 

This will be going in the center of the large side board.

Painted the runes, and used brass pins to attached the circles to each other. The ping pong balls are going to be little planet things interspersed around it. I drilled holes in them and put tooth-picks in them glued to the opposite inside also so they won't flop around. 

Primed, painted the base table color and then the hex pattern added. 

"Planets" installed. I also added some glowing trace work to them to spice them up.

With the Optifex added and some servitors floating around the rings. Also the finished "flags" and objectives for the table.

For forests I am making some "steam" vents with removable smoke/steam.
I used some MDF laser'd frames, glued some sheet metal to the back. I wanted to be able to magnetize the smoke to them.

With the masking tape off.

This stuff makes pretty good grating for projects. It is nice and light and easy to work with since it is softer aluminum. 

With some cut out, then super glued down.

Using expanded foam I made some smoke plumes. They will get painted black, then grey and white from the top. I will probably also add some OSL blue to the bottom of them too.

Now pretty much everything for the table is finished. 

Picture of the table with side boards without any terrain on it. Ideally I would have the main power cord coming out of the back side board, but I wanted to be able to just play with the center board without having to care around the side boards. I guess I could have the access hole on the side of the center board then have a pass through on the side board. I will have to see about doing that on the next one. 

With the lights on.

I think I want to add a rotating planetary gear grouping behind the eye. That won't be too hard as I set everything up to be disassembled. It will have to wait till after LVO though.

The plexi centers of the vertical supports are not as bright as I had hoped, but without LED's right up against them they wont be. But as least the color match as the table changes colors.

With the terrain on it.

The "trench" has magnetized walls so they come off for easy placement with necessary. 


Making an India themed finals table for Las Vegas Open

I will be doing a special board for the Las Vegas Open too! It will be similar in style to the WTC tables that had a main 4x4 play section and two side boards that are all built up and scenic. 

It will be and India temple themed board. So lots of temples that are overgrown with roots and cool statues. 

So something along this theme. 

And here are the statues I am making a bunch of.  I made a mold of some metal statues, then made Hydrostone copies of them. This will let me break them up too as needed.

On the left is going to be a large cliff that the statues will be carved into. On top of the cliff will be some trees. There will also be large trees on the side boards that look like this.

There will be a path way that leads up to the statues and the pool that is below the big face in the center.
On the right will be a valley entrance kinda setup with the cliffs and a path the leads between them flanked by statues.
There will also be ruined temples and such. The white pipe you see if the core of one of the trees for a sense of scale.
The main play area of the table is going to be flat with movable obstructions, walls, forests and such that are themed to the table. I plan on making themed zones for this table too if I have time. They would be thin laser cut zones with rune etching and they would match the feel of the board. So no brown felt zones to ruin the look!

The pathway is made with Hirst arts stone pavers. I broke them up and routered out depressions in the table for them to go into. 

Jumping ahead a little bit. After layering up the foam board, I carved it up using a compination of hot wire cutter and long sharp knife. After that I textured the faces with concreet patch. This will give it some texture along with toughening up the surface. 

The verticals trees are first made with 2" PVC pipe, then I used gauze bandage dipped in plaster and draped them around the pipes. To make the roots I twirled up the plaster gause and starting draping them on. As I would going along I used a brush and some water to help clean up the dripping plaster. 

Some of the statues in their alcoves. For the texture on the flat surfaces I put down a thick layer of paint and covered it with sand. I just use cheap latex house paint. It is nice and turable and thick enough for sand to stick to easily. 

So the terraining part of the side board is mostly done here.

First I painted the board with a coat of latex paint and covered it with sand. Once that was dry I brushed it off and covered it with another coat of paint. This seals in the sand nicely and makes the play surface nice and tough.

Adding some color variation to the table using green and brown washes. I made the washes with cheap craft paint and water. You don't need anything fance for terrain tables.

Dry brushed the surface sand to bring out the texture, along with painting the trees brown. 

Rocks washed and highlighted along with the trees highlight.

Shot of the table before grass and bushes.

The tables are almost finished up. I just have to finish the water effects and some small details. Pictures with the grass and clump foliage added.

Added some green flocking to the statues for some moss.

Side frame painted a dark green/black color. I like having something not pure black to paint the borders with so they don't contrast the table too badly.

The bottom of the pond painted and moss added where the water wil be trickling from the face.

Some of the terrain objstructions for the table. 

Got the scenic table to Las Vegas Open all finished up! One of the goals of it was to have an easily playable surface for it. So the play surface is a little simpler. 
For next year I REALLY liked the Cryx necrite mining field WMW did. So I might take direct inspiration from that. It would still be a "flat" playing surface but with all the recessed pipes with grating over them it would add a lot of depth to the table. Maybe even add some lights!